1980, Italian authorities established a superior classification of DOC wines. The roll call of Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) products began with five wines, Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Chianti, all Tuscan, and Barolo and Barbaresco, both produced in Piedmont. All five had solidly established international reputations and all but one, Brunello (developed since the middle of the 19th century), had been produced for centuries in one form or another (for example, Barolo seems at one point to have been vinified as a sweetish wine and Chianti as a white). The selection of the five for elevation to the peak of the Italian wine pyramid was, therefore, a foregone conclusion. Today, a total of 74 wines have been awarded the prestigious DOCG status. (See list)

 

The five wines are derived primarily from only two varieties, Nebbiolo for Barolo and Barbaresco and Sangiovese for the three others. The two grapes are native to Italy as are the varieties used in the production of most of the 19 other wines added to the superior category during the last 20 years. While, the "international" grapes employed in the making of some of the other DOCG wines have been cultivated in their production zones for a century or more and are completely acclimatized.

 

A DOCG wine must meet standards that are stricter than those stipulated in DOC regulations. One of the principal differences is the lower yields imposed by the DOCG rules. The reductions in output have probably done more to boost the quality of the wines than any other provision in the production codes. The rules also require in-depth chemical analyses for all DOCG wines. Laboratories recognized by the government must carry out the examinations of the wines' physical composition. Once the analyses have demonstrated that the chemical properties are in accordance with the standards specified in the DOCG regulations, committees consisting of expert tasters sample each producer's wines. The committees can reject wines that fail to meet the specified sensory standards or instruct the producers to take steps to remedy deficiencies before approving or discarding the product. Upon receipt of a favorable report on the outcome of the chemical and sensory analyses, the producers' consortia or, less often, some other official body issues small pink numbered seals that fit over the corks in the bottles of DOCG wines. Strict controls are applied to ensure that the number of seals issued corresponds to the amount of wine that can be produced in accordance with the limitations of the regulations.

 

Among Italy's 20 regions, Piemonte currently leads the way with 17 DOCG wines. In addition to Barolo and Barbaresco, the region produces also Gattinara and Ghemme, both dry reds made from Nebbiolo, also known in northeastern Piemonte as Spanna. There are two white DOCGs, the sweetish Asti, including Asti Spumante and Moscato d'Asti, and the dry Gavi or Cortese di Gavi. The Veneto is in second place with 14 DOCG appellations, including dry red Bardolino Superiore and two whites, dry Soave Superiore and sweet Recioto di Soave and others.

 

Toscana, Piemonte's perennial rival in the enological sector, ranks in third place with 11 DOCG wines. Chianti has been divided into two appellations: Chianti Classico, the oldest production zone located in the center of Toscana, and Chianti, which consists of seven subzones. The subzones, clustered around the Classico zone, are: Colli Aretini, Colli Fiorentini, Colli Senesi, Colline Pisane, Montalbano, Rufina and Montespertoli.

 

The regions of Lombardia and Umbria are tied in the DOCG category with 5 wines each. In Lombardia, there is Valtellina Superiore with four subzones: Sassella, Grumello, Inferno and Valgella. All four are made from Chiavennasca, the local name for Nebbiolo. As to Franciacorta, is a classic sparkler made in a "plain" version and two additional types, Saten and Rose. Emilia-Romagna produces minaly white Albana di Romagna in four types, including a passito version, and Friuli-Venezia Giulia turns out Ramandolo, a sweet wine made in a highly limited area. Campania offers a formidable dry red, Taurasi, while Sardinia serves up Vermentino di Gallura, a dry white. 

 

The National DOC Wine Committee has been relatively niggardly in recognizing DOCG appellations. The extensive preparations the wine producers who petition for DOCG recognition must make are time consuming and require substantial investments. In the long run, however, producers of lesser known but high-quality wines that have entered the DOCG category have seen demand grow briskly both on the domestic and international markets. Therefore, the DOCG list is certain to continue to grow.